The river Fontanka - Valaam island and came back

While you have never been to Fidji, Miami, Turkey with Greece you think it is a fairy tale, when you has visited it you understand it is a prose! But there are places where a fairy tale continuous and where pulls are constantly. It is twice pleasant, that these places are in Russia and it is possible to get there without ceremony... We take two boats, we inflate, we put motors and go in a way.
Boats "KORSAR - Komandor 470" and "KORSAR - Admiral 610" inflatable boats gather and understand, when necessary and anywhere, each boat finds room in two bags. Motors "Yamaha" and "Johnson" are on 50 forces everyone. Gasoline 92A is about 500 litres. Navigation is electronic and paper cards, GPS, portable radio sets. A command are normal sea tramps is a command "KORSAR". A route is St.-Petersburg - the river Fontanka - the river Neva - Petrokrepost - Ladoga lake - Priozersk - island Valaam and back all the way is 600 km in inflatable fairy places.
We sail at 10:00 a.m., Fontanka - St.Peter-Paul Fortress - the Aurora - Volodarsky bridge is already behind. The way up to Petrokrepost has borrowed 2 hours, 72 km against current. Movement is recovered, we observe all rules and signs. "Admiral" is loaded under a ton; a command is two persons, two motors (one spare Mercury 15 h.p.), gasoline in tanks is 350 litres, plus equipment and tackles. "Komandor" is loaded on 600 kg., a command is two person, gasoline is 150 litres plus equipment and tackles.
Preliminary points of a route are noted on a card and coordinates are brought in GPS. Went to Ladoga, we go strictly on points just not to run against underwater obstacles which there are a lot in Ladoga. It could be underwater rocks, the sunk ships or banks. The route was put from the checked up electronic cards of company "Transas", it is undoubtedly very conveniently and it has considerably secured our route. Arrow of GPS all way clearly showed the necessary direction and places of turns.
Distance between courts is 300 - 500 meters, we communicate on a portable radio set. An awning protects from a rain and a wind, the awning we have established before departure. We go on distance of 1,5 km along the coast, because there are less chances to reel up on the screw fishing networks, though on a card "Transas" networks are put on but as in proverb “the God protects the prudents”. The wave of 60 - 70 sm and congestion of boats allows to hold speed about 25 km/hours. At the left side we leave beacon Koshkinsky behind, on the right side the bank Zheleznitsa (depth 0,8 - 1,6 meters), at the left side the bank Olhovets and beacon Osinovetskiy and at the left the cape Maryin Nose. In total there were passed more than 100 km.
Further under us are equal 8-9 meter depths without underwater rocks and jars. The following of one and a half hour we enjoy lulling movement on a smooth meter wave. On a lodging for the night we plan to stop in harbours Nizhnie Nikuliasy. The harbour was strongly overgrown with cane and grass. It was not use for a long time. We suppress and lift motors on hundred meters up to coast, we come on oars in docs and drag our "ships" on a coast.
We unloaded everything that is necessary for a lodging for the night and a supper very fast. Having established tents we have inflated beds and kindled a fire. It was evening nightfall. It is a good time for fishing. Striped perches just waited to get in a boiler. An ear perch, a crackling fire, a crimson decline, a pile of vodka and a heart-to-heart talk is one more tale from "Thousand and one night ". In total it was passed about 140 km. It is spent gasoline of "Admiral 610 " with motor Johnson 50HP 85 litres, " Komandor 470 " with motor Yamaha 50HP 67 litres.
We slept as long as we wanted, had a breakfast, short gathering and go in a way. We deduce KORSARs from a cane, floated it off on safe distance from stony coast. Water is pure and transparent, visible stones have disappeared,  we lower motors and start. We take a course to Priozersk which was laid earlier. It is 78 km up to it. It is 1 p.m. Ladoga is quiet, but a gusty wind blows. It will be a wave. In an hour a counter meter wave with combs and the wind reduce our speed up to 17-20 km/h.
Windage of awnings does not allow to be dispersed, the head wind with force blows under an awning as for the best visibility we have removed forward part of awning and it is only bed curtains an awning above us. But we decided  not to remove it because there is no reasons to hasten. Boats behave perfectly themselves.
Motors hoot. Waves rustle. At the left side it is a fine panorama, on the right side is the Ladoga distances, it is direct of the course Priozersk. We has passed 14 km, at the left hand it is cape Dalniy and a dam constructed by Finns when these territories belonged to them. On the right side it is Suhanevskaya bank in five kilometers, depth there is 1 - 2 meters. There is very successful place, but it is impossible to catch there from any known boat, except for inflatable Korsars and its import colleagues. The arising wave on small depths overturns and heats vessels with the hard case, and significant removal from a coast does fishing not safe. If a wave on depth is more than 8 meters sloping being rolled out on depths of 1-2 meters it becomes high, sharp and malicious. Extent of a bank is 5 km to Ladoga, here Finns caught a salmon, white-fish and other valuable fish for centuries. Our boats have no restriction on removal from coast and we could float there but we decide to make it next time.
At the left side there is an island Drevniy and we decide to keep from coast at arm's length 5 kilometers because we should pass Taipalovsky and Podbelskiy gulfs where there are underwater rocks, fishing networks and shallows. Here the river Rough runs into Ladoga. After Cheremukhin cape we go along a coast and we enjoy sights. We pass the strait Konevetsky at the left hand it is a gulf Vladimir on the right it is island Konevets. It was passed 45 km, it was 33 km left from planned for today.
For pair hours we start to search a place for a lodging for the night but there is no suitable place, the coast is stony and not cosy. We went away to Priozersk hoping to find a suitable place. And here is success! There is very small gulf with a sandy beach near Storozhevoy cape. It is an excellent place: pines, fur-trees and set of a wild camomile. We extend boats on coast we are unloaded. We put  tents on a marvellous glade, the fire shines our camp. The kettle with potatoes is removed from fire, refuels with onion and tinned stewed meat. It is salted. A little reaches. Spoons tinkled. Cups with vodka amicably meet. We drank: for those who in the sea, for us, for success, etc. There dreams is removed which you never will see in city at night. Morning walk on a wood facilitates a body and cheers up. The day should be wonderful! Half of command went behind gasoline to Priozersk on "Admirale" having loaded in a boat all empty tanks. Remained make a breakfast and collect camp.
Having sailed from coast on an one and a half kilometer we understand the day will be cloudy. The drizzle, a gusty wind and a two-meter wave is a usual weather for Ladoga. And we should be convinced, that for our boats these conditions are as usual. We reach a mouth of Vuoksa, such places name estuarys (a flooded mouth of the river) further closely and is slowly moved on beacons and navigating signs. As depth here is small about 0,7 - 3 meters and we do not plan to run againston an obstacle. Current is quiet, but a channel of the river does some turns under water and they are designated only by navigating signs, and distance between the coast is 300 - 400 meters. Width of a waterway (safe ship pass) is 30 - 50 meters. After last turn parking for boats and yachts appears. We moor. We are met by the owner. We get acquainted. Vladimir is a fifty years old man informs us where it is possible to refuel gasoline:
- Here it is not far, 1 kilometer and a half on road and will be refuelling. If it is necessary load tanks on a cart and roll. - thanks certainly!
 - It is answered, but it decided to employ the machine. For hundred rubles we  drown on refuelling, have poured 170 litres 95A in tanks and come back. In an hour of parking Vladimir has not taken money. He has advised not to float today to Valaam:
- Wait a day, weather forecast is very bad, trip routes on boats to Valaam are cancelled and you are on inflatable. It is very dangerous. Once again we thanked to Vladimir and went in a way. It is 5 kilometers up to base. It needed 15 minutes to get there. Properly having had breakfast, we pack and carefully fix equipment. We agree, that boats should keep in 30 meters from each other. We adjust GPS - navigators so that in case of loss from visibility to inform on a portable radio set exact coordinates each other. The route is laid so that the maximal removal from coast of 10 km. We agree about actions in the extreme situations. We decide to hold speed on average turns of the engine. We set out. Up to Valaam on a straight line is 50 km, on the laid route is nearby 80. We go along islands Burnev and Zayachiy, depth is 50 meters, a wave of 2 meters flat, speed of 20 km/hours, it is drizzling, visibility of 5 - 6 kilometers. At the left hand it is seen set of rocky islands. In general islands in Ladoga is nearby 660. On the right hand is island Selkjamarjansari, at the left is islands Pjatjakjansaret and cape Kurkiniemi. In this part of Ladoga Finnish names prevail.
It is 15 kilometers up to island Rahmansari against a wave and a wind. It is practically impossible to go against 2-3 meter waves and a strong wind. It is sharp toss up upwards a boat on a wave, the wind blowing under an awning for an instant keeps it on air, the wave passes under us and our "KORSAR" falls downwards. Then it was a following wave and so indefinitely. Speed has fallen up to 5 km/hours. We decided to go tacks, a zigzag rate, as under a sail. Speed increases up to 12 km/hours, but it will not accelerate approach the purpose. Rolling over from a wave on a wave, closely we watch waves as come across huge one and we meet them a nose, instead of sideways. The sailor on "Admirale" feeds the gulls, having rolled over through a board, he was made seasick. We keep boats from each other at arm's length 2-3 waves not to be lost and that a wave has not thrown a boat on a boat. Visibility is  floor of kilometer, depth about 100 meters. Quite often we lose each other from visibility from for waves, it is invisible there is even a flag "Korsar", untwisting on the two-meter staff, attached on a forage "Komandor". A tatter of clouds cling waves. The storm amplifies. Visibility worsens.
Coasts are not visible. We go on an arrow of the navigator. In two hours there is an island Jalajansari. It’s second name is  "Goliy". We bypass it from the right part we find small doc and on a crest of a rustling wave swam in to. On the coast it is canvas tent near is a metal boat. "Robinzons" were surprised to our visit and have asked a tablet for a head ache. The man and the middle age woman dirty and shaggy were whispered.
- Where is Valaam island? Raked us a sight and having looked in a distance the woman having given up as hopeless during a storm, has answered:
- There... Now it is not visible... May be tomorrow... Unpacked the first-aid set, we have given out to them of medicines. Then they have crept away in the tent. The island has appeared not absolutely naked, in width of 250 meters and in length about 2 kilometers. There are some fine curve trees and bushes set of a dogrose and a continuous raspberry. Berries was a little, we were late for a crop. Then we have decided to have dinner that the God has given. And the god has given: smoked sausages hunting, Swiss house cheese, fresh-salted cucumbers, a loaf of a white bread and to kvass "Boyarskyi". Having properly supported, we have decided not to wait for a storm calming down. In binokulars Valaam was not visible, but arrows of navigators obstinately showed a direction. On an electronic card distance from us up to Valaam is 15 km. Certainly in clear weather the island would be visible, but not during a storm. The nature walked! A fine show for adults. We decide to walk up to Valaam...
To depart from coast it has appeared more difficultly, than to moor. To it stirred waves rolling on coast. It was necessary to depart from coast on oars, on 50 meters, then only to lower a leg of the motor in water and to get it. Having coped with this problem, we begin the movement to island on waves, on distance of 20 - 30 meters from each other. To the right of us it should be visible the island Mekerikke, on a card up to it is only 2,5 kilometers. But visibility bad and islands it is not visible. It is raining. The wind blows under an awning. Depth is about 180 meters. The rate is held on the navigator. All in all it was planned. Speed is about 12 km/h. In an hour of walk Ladoga calms down, waves become not such greater, the wind blows more poorly, but the rain drips. We are rescueed with a special waterproof overalls and the boots specially made for sportsmen yachtsmen and for such as we of tramps. On horizon the archipelago Valaamsky (about 50 islands) has seemed to biggest of them island Valaam. The archipelago Valaamsky possesses the rare and surprising nature on beauty. Steep rocks with a reddish shade rise above water, century fur-trees and pines resist to cold winds, severe greatness of the protogenic nature and an originality of architectural ensembles, all of  this does Valaam by one of the most beautiful islands of the world. Elks, hares, fibers, foxes live here. It is possible to see a rookery of the seal. The salmon, umber, white-fish, umber is caught. We approach to island Nikolsky, there is Nikolsky monastery and a cross, we bow. Thanks God! We have reached. We enter into a monastic bay. Ahead at the left on a hill the Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy cathedral with blue domes is visible. The monastic bell as if welcomes us sounds. Is in Russian ground of a monastery whose marvellous light attracts to itself pilgrims from all of the world. The Valaam monastery takes a special place as it is removed from wordly vanity and is surrounded by water. And the life of monks is similar to a feat.
Slowly it is moved on navigating signs to depth of island, at the left side there is a quay, we decided not  to stop to search for a place for a lodging for the night. We pass under the Vladimir bridge of marvellous beauty. It is entirely laid out from a stone and it seems that boats will not pass under it. From boards up to coast is less then a half of a meter. Motors hoot under the arches of the bridge and the echo is carried away in depth of island. At the left side a gulf of Cocks, we turn to the right. Having passed a little we stop the  boats in abrupt coast and suppress the motors. The silence deafens. Quarter of hour ago waves rustled and the wind blew; now it is wonderful. There are neither waves, nor a wind. Singing birds breaks absolute rest and knock of a woodpecker. We moor boats to a huge pine, having adhered for a tree trunk a rope. We unload equipment.
We put tents, we inflate beds, we lay sleeping bags. Search of fire wood has appeared inconvenient as though fire wood have collected all up to us. Parking has appeared successful, probably monks here have a rest after works. The table, a bench is hammered together up to us. There is a convenient fire. But where is fire wood? Have found! In bushes hided by monks a log.
Fishermen have got tackles and have begun to fish. Depth is around 5 - 10 meters. Water is transparent. It is literally in some minutes the pike on 4 kg comes across. We’ll have an ear. The caught fish we clean. Water we take there and then. The kettle is hung up on a tripod when begins to boil, we remove foam, we add an onions - a head, a bay leaf - a little, fragrant and black pepper - a peas, we salt, we wait for 5-7 minutes, we extinguish in a kettle a birch brand, we remove from fire and we put a kettle on a table, we add there a pile of vodka. An ear it is ready! Bon appetit!
The supper was tightened deeply midnight. The correct ear and vodka have made conversation interesting and substantial. Everyone would like to share impressions and to express. Have recollected that there are mobile phones, have checked up, the phones take (NWGSM)! We called to everybody. We have woken up strangely enough early. But we have slept superb. There were no mosquito nor midges as all have died. Probably the healthy nature of these places so operates. We had breakfast not fast. Fishermen fished, catched something. It is very conveniently to fish costing on top the tumbled down lightning to a pine which has fallen and stands out in a gulf on 30 meters, strong keeping roots for abrupt coast. The magnificent kind opens from a hill: Skitskiy gulf, the Monastic farm, the Smolensk monastery and a chapel, rocks, pines and fur-trees. Weather indulges us. Neither a rain, nor a wind.
We decide to visit the Cathedral and a monastery. Short gathering and in a way to quay. We reserve the order unless a log have truncated, sawed fire wood. A familiar path we go to quay. There is already briskly: the boat and "Rocket" on underwater wings have brought tourists. We moor beside. We read rules at the stand: "Do not tease the Monks! Do not plant Fires!". Well, we shall not do it. We come up on a ladder to a Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy a cathedral. Protection stops, asks:
- Where?
- There, - it is answered, noding on a cathedral.
- Are you with a group? - the question of the security guard sounds.
-It is possible we are the group ourselves, - it is answered. – the head of Monastery order, - the security guard speaks.
- Where is a head of Monastery? We are the travelers floated, floated...
- A head of Monastery is borrowed, there is a delegation, there is nothing to disturb it. - other security guard has interfered.
- Wait for tourist group, it is impossible without group, - has added the first.
- So it is a museum or a cathedral?
A number whispered two tall monks in black clothes. We did not begin to wait tourist group, have gone to quay, have bought souvenirs and have sailed away. We send from the Monastic bay, have turned on the left and have gone along islands Skitsky, Moscow, Predtechensky, Rzhanoy, Ovsyaniy. Monasteries and chapels were seen. This ground entirely belongs to church but why they have not started up us in a cathedral is not clearly. In any country it is possible to enter freely into a temple of belief, and it is a nonsense here just only with group. Reflecting above it, we have not noticed that it is became very cold also we swam out in a continuous fog. It was so dense and thick, that it seemed we float in milk. We keep literally number with each other to not be lost. Well that there is no wave. We lighted onboard fires and with symbols lantern that what or the vessel has not flown on us. Up to Priozersk is around 54 km. Depth is 150 - 170 meters. It is a dense fog. We go on an arrow of the navigator. Speed is around of 18 km/h. There is small excitement. Suddenly at the left from a fog there is a white vessel, without signals and fires. "Admiral" has time to slip, "Komandor" does maneuver to avoid collision. Collision was possible to avoid owing to an excellent maneuverability of boats and in professionalism of crews. The vessel disappears as quickly as has appeared. Yes, the greater wave, than such unexpectedness is better. We continue movement.  The fog became less dense and we come up as from a cloud through which made the way. The bright sun, the azure water, a full calm is as if water has fallen asleep, not disturb and we are on two boats as if fly between clouds being reflected in the "fallen asleep" Ladoga. It is a tremendous condition. We have stopped. We have muffled motors to feel all this charm. Yes, it is the present good fortune after a wind, a rain, a storm and a fog.
Ahead on the right side is island Verkkosari. Ahead behind a horizon is Priozersk. It is about 30 km up to. The easy breeze was passed on water. The smooth surface has disappeared. We begin movement. Speed of 24 km/h. The visibility is ideal. We plan to refuel in Priozersk and to move in St/Petersburg. A place for a lodging for the night we decided to search when it start to get dark. We have approached to a familiar mooring, have talked to the owner, have gone on refuelling, have poured in tanks of 170 litres A95. Up to the river of Neva is 145 km, plus of 72 km up to St.Petersburg. “Road to the house is more close”, - people said, we decided to check up. Time 6:00 p.m.. We shall start. Weather is good fortune. The small wave is not present a wind. Speed is 24 km/h. Turns of the engine 3900 in minut. The way is known. We exchange words on a portable radio set. The sailor dozes on a nose of a boat. Movement smooth and lulling. For all way boats, motors have not brought. Pleasantly, to rush on a water smooth surface, sitting in skin sitting from SAAB, holding in hands a convenient rudder to operate a reliable inflatable boat. 
To kow that all water open spaces for you are opened. Also that you can catch all the fish.
At 7 p.m. we start to look for a night’s lodging, it is passed 40 km. But the weather is good we have decided to go further. While we floated the fog has begun, we thought that it will soon end, but we were mistaken, so continuous  hour, an one and a half. We decided to go to coast. But everything is not so  simple, the fog is everywhere and nobody know: where, what for and what to do? But because of GPS we lay a rate. Even 30 minutes left and the fog began to dissipate, there were outlines of coast.
There is a Gulf Cheremuhinskiy. When we begun to come nearer to coast there appeared stones, and the feeling of famine all is closer to a stomach. The coast has appeared stony. Having floated further straight of the coast we have reconciled to an idea what further to float is useless, coast is continuous stones. To leave on coast, it was necessary to us take off the kelsons and boats easily overcome hardly the flooded stones. Here we are on the coast. Boats we fix on the stones. To spend the night we should in a wood. A fire burned, the tents stood. And we observed of the seal which hunted not far from us. Having eaten tinned stewed meat and cheese we have laid down to sleep. In the morning we having woken up, have found out that we cost in the middle of a bilberry glade. If the wood-goblins exists they should be live in such wood. For a half of hour the berries are  large and tasty. We had a drink some tea and went in a way. It is last length of way. In St.Petersburg we come in  8 hours, having overcome 170 km. We stopped to pour only once gasoline, on water it to do not conveniently. All in all the travel was great. Next time we’ll take less things because there were superfluous. Instead of carryalls it is necessary to take plastic boxes,it is more convenient. At sharp temperature drops, it needs to hide a photo and video the equipment in special covers that did not appear condensate. Considering the aforesaid it is possible to float anywhere and whenever, but after checking up the boats and with the good company.